Saturday, July 12, 2008

Facts, you should know about fragrance

Perfume (latin "through the smoke", the "through smoke") was very encouraged by the Egyptians, Romans and Arabs. In East Asia, perfumes incense was founded. The people have to do, the smells, spices and herbs such as bergamot, myrtle, coriander, resin from pine trees, and almonds. The use of flowers was only after Avicenna, an Iranian doctor and chemist has shown the process of distillation, the oils could be affected by flowers. In the year 1370, at the request of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary, the first modern fragrance - "The Hungarians Water" was made possible by the mixing of fragrant oils solution in alcohol.

The composition of a perfume is of vital importance and is an expert known as Parfümeur, mainly essences such as rose, jasmine, cola, etc.; modifiers such as esters; mixers such as linalool and hydroxycitronellol Fixers and resins, wood perfume, Bernstein and databases. The fragrance is in a musical metaphor three "notes", that is, notes head (too fast drying and small molecules), such as citrus fruit and aromas of ginger; middle grades (from a slow evaporation of molecules medium size), like lavender and pink notes and fragrances, basic (consisting of slower evaporation of the larger molecules), as Fixers etc. All these notes work together like a musical instrument.

Perfume oils contain volatile in high concentrations and must therefore be diluted solvents, so that the damage was not caused when it directly on the skin or clothing. The municipality solvent is pure ethanol or ethanol mixed with water. Split coconut oil or wax, odorless, such as jojoba oil fats, can also be used as solvents and diluting the smell of oil. The fragrance oil is mixed with other aromatics. In general, the proportion of aromatic scent in the extract from 20% to 40% in water fragrance is from 10% to 30% in eau de toilette is 5% to 20% and in the waters of Cologne rose from 2% to 5%.

The oil in a concentration of perfume and other aromatic compounds, the intensity, persistence and the price of the scent, and therefore it is a strictly guarded secret, every scent and Parfümeur house. By setting the rate and the notes of the fragrance, variants of the same brand created in May, as for Chanel for the Lord and Mr. Concentree.

Classification of fragrances is never complete, because of its full development. The traditional division of the categories includes only flowers, bouquet, Ambery, Woody, leather, Cyprus, and Fougere, while the modern classification consists of Floral Bright, green, Oceania / ozone, Citrus / fruity and gourmets. In 1983, Michael Edwards, a fragrance consultant, has a new fragrance classification "The smell of wheels," the orderly and families together under five types, namely flowers (flowers, soft flowers, flowers Oriental), Oriental (soft Oriental, Oriental, Woody Oriental), Woody (wood, Mossy Woods, Woods Sec), Fougere (a scent of the elements of all families) and costs (Citrus, green, water).

Perfumery has initiated a number of sources, aromatic, such as plants, animals and synthetic sources used in the manufacture of perfumes. The plants are used as a source of flavor and essential oils. The parts of plants that are used are the following:

1 - Bark (cinnamon, cascarilla);
2 - The flowers (rose, jasmine, Osmanthus, Tuberous, Mimose, vanilla);
3 - Blossoms (citrus, ylang-ylang, cloves);
4 - The fruits (apples, strawberries, cherries, Litsea cubeba, the juniper berries, vanilla, oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits);
5 - The leaves and twigs (Lavender, Patchouli, citrus fruit, violets, sage, rosemary, hay, tomatoes);
6 - resins (labdanum, myrrh, benjoin rubber tree of Peru, incense / Oliban, pine, fir, Bernstein, copal);
7 - roots, tubers and rhizomes (roots, Vetiver, ginger and iris rhizomes);
8 - seeds (coriander, cocoa, Macis, cardamom, anise, nutmeg, caraway, tonka beans);
9 - Woods (Agar wood, birch, rosewood, sandalwood, pine, birch, juniper, cedar).

Animal sources Grey Ambra, castoreum, musk, Rome terpenes, nest bee and Civet. Other natural resources include the lichen and protistes. Synthetic sources of synthetic odorisants synthesized from distillates of oil, resins, pine, etc. are for the most modern fragrances produced from sources, because it allows synthetic fragrances not in the way Calone is a synthetic, was a seaman Ozonous metal scent. Aromatic synthetic aromatic are, of course, and are therefore now largely in the modern scents.

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